Zucchini
By Anna King Shahab
A late summer starlet, zucchini is also one of the most versatile veggies around – but it can sometimes be difficult to think of fresh ways to make use of it. Here are some of our favourites…
The Neapolitans have a knack for creating veggie dishes that cool one down on a hot day, like the minty, vinegary, zucchine alla scapece. Slice 3-4 medium zucchini into thin discs and pat dry, then fry in batches over medium-high heat in scalding olive oil until golden and crisping at edges. In a blender whizz ⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil, ¼ cup red or white wine vinegar, juice ½ lemon, 2 cloves garlic, good grind of black pepper, 1 tsp sea salt, and a cup of picked mint leaves. Toss the blended dressing through zuc and serve at room temperature.
Another really refreshing dish with zucchini doesn’t even require heat. A grated zucchini salad thingamee can be served alongside alongside grilled fish or meat, or you might pile into burger buns or sliders. Grate your zucchini and toss with toasted pine nuts, crumbled feta, golden raisins, and a dressing of lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. Throw in a few variations – julienned Granny Smith apple, shredded savoy cabbage, picked watercress, or thinly sliced fennel bulb or leaves of wood sorrel.
Conca dei Marini possesses none of the overt jetset airs of nearby coastal hotspots Positano and Amalfi. Even today, the charming beach – pebbly, with excellent rocks for leaping into the clear water – can be wonderfully empty, its few plastic loungers and waterfront restaurants well seasoned by the salty Med. The story goes that the then Jackie Kennedy, vacationing for several weeks in chi-chi Ravello in 1962, would ride over to Conca dei Marini to waterski. Legend has it that she liked to visit La Tonnarella, a humble restaurant on the beach named for the tuna-netting history of the cove. The proprietor Umberto served her a simple spaghetti dish which became her go-to. La Tonnarella remains today, still pretty simple and still serving that spag dish, except now it’s known as Lo Spaghetto alla Jacqueline in her honour. You can easily give it a go at home: fry thin discs of zucchini with diced pancetta (or bacon), add a decent amount of cream and toss through al dente spaghetti, then grate over plenty of parm. Close your eyes and dream yourself to the Conca.
Zucchini fritters are easy, and easy to change up depending on what you have to hand. To grated zuc, beaten egg, flour of your choice and a little baking powder try adding chopped garlic, diced feta, toasted almond slivers, chopped fresh mint leaves and lemon zest. Fry fritters in batches till golden and serve with a tzatziki kinda dipping/dolloping sauce. Or instead roll with other combos to your zuc, egg, flour, baking powder base: grated parmesan, cayenne pepper, mozzarella torn into small pinch-pieces. Try swapping wheat flour out for besan (chickpea flour) and introducing an Indian feel with diced onion, a little minced ginger and garlic, garam masala, finely diced paneer, chopped coriander, and black pepper – then after cooking, sprinkle over chaat masala (we love Cassia At Home’s).
Chef Thomas Keller’s zucchini has been around for yonks but quite recently went viral on TikTok and we totally understand why – zucchini cooked this way is seductively silky and succulent. In essence, it’s a quick pan-fry followed by an oven roast. Slice zucchini in half lengthwise and score the interior face with a crosshatch pattern. Heat a generous amount of olive or avocado oil over medium-high heat on the stovetop, in an ovenproof fry pan. Place zucchini patterned side down in the hot oil and cook for 5 minutes. Transfer to a preheated oven and bake for 20 minutes at 180℃ then flip the zucchini so the now caramelised pattern side is facing up, and bake for a further 5 minutes. Serve topped with whatever you like – a drizzle of balsamic glaze or pomegranate molasses, toasted pine nuts, dollops of ricotta whipped with lemon zest and sea salt, and baby mint leaves is a good topping – or try a parmesan-spruiked gremolata, or brush with Thai-style chilli jam and sprinkle over crisp fried shallots and coriander leaves.
