Get Tipsy with Simon Benoit in Southern Provence
Simon Benoit is the restaurant manager of Cazador and one of Tāmaki Makaurau’s most respected and well-liked people in the industry. He hails from a small town in Provence and his tips below offer a ‘golden triangle’ itinerary for the region – best done in summer, he says. Starting in Aix, he takes us on a drive through the pretty countryside to Cassis and then onwards to the port city of Marseille. Along the way there’s plenty of stops both stunning and delicious.
Aix
Start the day with a visit to the flower market, followed by the farmers and producers market which is on every morning on La Place Richelme. Stop at Maison Riederer on Place de la Mairie for a coffee and one of the best pastries in town.
One of my favorite restaurants on earth is Les Vieilles Canailles. A tiny bistrot with the freshest food with a great wine list and incredible service – they speak great English too! There’s a simple blackboard menu but they’ll give you a great explanation about each course. Make sure that you try their Paris brest.
Aix is where Paul Cezanne was born and the artist made the city and its mountain La Sainte Victoire famous by painting it at different moments of the day, in different light – the birth of Impressionism. In Aix, everything is named after Cezanne: streets, cinema, parks. You can visit his workshop in town, and for sporty types, hike to the top of that mountain, following the Imoucha trail.
One place has it all – Gallifet on Rue Cardinale encompasses an art gallery and restaurant and a lovely courtyard. My last visit there was incredible – the food is absolutely Provençale and the wines all come from small producers in the region. This is the most peaceful and tucked away spot in town.
La Bouchée and Poivre D'Ane serve amazing food, and don’t miss La Meduse for great drinks and snacks.
Provençale countryside
The drive to Rousset along La Route Cezanne (him again!) is the prettiest journey. You follow the mountain, and pass through towns like Le Tholonet, where you should stop for the lavender fields on the side of the road. In Rousset, Maison & Bistrot Grand Boise is great for either lunch or dinner, and they make delicious wines – their Jadis blanc is spectacular. To get into the restaurant you pass through their cellar door and shop, stocked with local specialties as well as great French classics. Ask Nicolas for a wine recommendation and let him take you on a journey – he is incredible with his descriptions and his stories.
Fuveau is a great place to stop and walk to the top of the cute village through tiny narrow streets. I know New Zealanders love ice cream – I do too and Maison Casalini is absolutely stunning. Also call into Bizu, an incredible boulangerie and patisserie.
Cassis
If you’re feeling flush book for La Villa Madie for an incredible Michelin 3-star experience. Driving La Route de Cretes will take you to one of the best lookouts in the whole region – up on top of the highest cliff on the whole Mediterranean sea, the view is simply stunning.
Marseille
Marseille is such a special city – more than 2500 years of history, and one of the most multicultural cities in the world.
Make sure you visit Notre Dame de la Garde for an incredible view over the city. Take a ferry to Le Château d'If, the island prison where Le Comte de Montecristo spent a bit of time against his will.
You’ll want to try the local specialty bouillabaisse, of course. Chez Fonfon in the middle of the city is both epic and consistent – it’s been open since 1952. I tend to prefer heading out of the city to Les Goudes for a rustic bouillabaisse experience at Le Bar de la Marine, complete with a great view.
Immigration after WW1 saw Marseille become known as Little Napoli; it’s home to the most pizza trucks per capita and some of the best Neapolitan pizza you can hope for. Pizzeria Chez Sauveur has been going for 70 years ago and always delivers.
La Mercerie is a great place for dinner with good wine and a vibe. For cool bars and a bit of underground culture, head to La Plaine/ Cours Julien district.
