Get Tipsy with Henry Onesomo in Bangkok
Henry Onesemo’s modern Samoan restaurant Tala broke new ground not just on Auckland’s culinary scene, but that of the entire world, when its doors opened in 2023. Never before had specifically Samoan food been presented in a fine-dining format; here is a chef telling stories of a Samoan upbringing enthrallingly – on a plate.
As well as alongside renowned chef Michael Meredith at his then restaurant Merediths, Henry cut his teeth at Bangkok’s Gaa, which now holds two Michelin stars. Henry and his wife and business partner Debby Onesemo returned to Bangkok last December-January for the first time since living there. “We were fortunate to spend New Years Eve dining at Gaa, then ringing in the new year with the team. Some of my former colleagues from Gaa have opened their own place and it was great to experience what they are doing. And some of my favourite hole-in-the-wall chicken rice places have now been franchised and you see them all over the city!”.
We get tipsy with Henry in Thailand’s vibrant, ever-evolving, perennially palate-pleasing capital.
Bangkok in three words
Eat, drink, shop
Favourite local local eatery and go-to dish
Pork larb (larb moo) with sticky rice and deep fried chicken wing from the street food cart in front of the 7 Eleven on Sathorn Soi 1. I love this dish because it is super fragrant, fresh and light. The textures of the crispy fried chicken, crunch of fresh veggies in the larb and the chewy sticky rice is a great combo. The cart also serves tom yum and khao soi.
Favourite upmarket restaurant – what wowed you?
Sühring – the spätzle dish at this two Michelin-star restaurant was incredible. Our meal at Sühring was the most expensive we have ever had, but so worth it – the exact figure has become insignificant in memory. Ha ha… the next day’s dinner was skewers for like one dollar, and they were also amazing. 10 Soi Yen Akat 3, Chong Nonsi, Yan Nawa
We also went to Gaggan. My experience with Indian food was limited to Paradise and Satya in Auckland, but I always found it to be my favourite style of eating, so it was great to see what Gaggan’s avant garde take was on these flavours. 68 Sukhumvit 31, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana
How to breakfast like a local
Order tom luad moo - soup with lots of parsts of pig – meat, blood, intestines, and liver. Just a warning, ordering it with bile might push things too far for most palates!
Best area to base yourself in
The Langsuan area of Pathumwan, near Lumpini Park. It’s a great area since you are in close proximity to everything without the hustle and bustle of some busier more crowded areas. You can walk to most areas you want to go to but then it’s a nice quiet area to come back to at the end of the day.
Accommodation recs
Start at Centre Point Chidlom and spend your last few days along Chao Praya river enjoying a bit of luxury in a Shangri-La Riverside in a riverfront room. Centre Point Chidlom: 60 Lang Suan 1 Alley, Lumphini, Pathum Wan / Shangri-La Riverside: 89 Wat Suan Phlu Alley, Bang Rak
Most lively area to spend a day or night exploring
Anywhere in Bangkok is a great lively place to spend the day or evening. Chinatown and the floating markets by day, and a rooftop bar at night in the Sukhumvit district – there are plenty to choose from!
Most surprising food/drink find
Larder – Polish style cured meats, pastries, breads and sandwiches with the best sourdough in all of Bangkok in a very cool big warehouse space. It’s very popular with the hospo crowd. I worked with Adrian Klonowski the owner and chef at Gaa. 31/2 Phrom Chai Alley, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana
Best cocktails
Amocktail at Le Du Kaan rooftop – it’s dizzyingly spectacular, on the 56th floor of The Empire in Sathon with 360-degree views. I love the Lanyai Nara Dok Mai, made from longan with apple tea, jasmine and lemon. It tastes extra amazing at sunset! 56th Floor The Empire, 1 S Sathon Rd, Yan Nawa, Sathon
Speakeasy bars or other such hidden gems
Mod Kaew Wine Bar is a real hidden gem. You would never stumble across it but pop the address into Google Maps you should be able to find it. There’s a courtyard outside and more of a club vibe inside with a DJ. It’s run by a trio of sommeliers but it’s super relaxed, not stuffy at all! They serve casual plates – the table gets covered with food and they’re very generous with tastings as well as knowledge. 142 Soi Seeks Wittaya, Sathon Soi 12 Alley, Bang Rak
