AKL to BKK and back again – Chef Lek

As opening chef of former Ponsonby restaurant SAAN (2015–2022), Chef Wichian ‘Lek’ Trirattanavatin introduced diners to a side of Thai cuisine not really seen here before – food that wasn’t watered down, food that was contextual and meaningful, influenced by his upbringing and family recipes.

Lek is back in Aotearoa to helm the return of SAAN as a popup in Britomart starting today. We reached out for a chat…

Lek’s Soft Shell Crab

What are some of your fondest memories of SAAN, from creating the menu and opening, to building such a loyal fanbase? 

My most cherished memory is making and creating Thai food in ways that few had previously dared to try. I thought it was risky, but I wanted to give it a go. The result was that there are truly so many people who now cherish authentic Thai cuisine.

When did you leave NZ, and where has your career taken you since?

I left New Zealand in 2018 to support my family in Thailand. I had the opportunity to work at Capella Hotel Bangkok, and to be part of the first generation there to help propel it to become a world-class hotel. In 2019 it was named the number one in the World’s 50 Best Hotels. I also became a Thai chef instructor at Le cordon bleu in Bangkok.

Now that you’re executive chef at Jim Thompson, are there still similarities with the food you introduced at SAAN?

To be honest, everywhere I've had the opportunity to work, I've always used the recipes from my family. I've adapted them a bit to suit modern times, but at the very least, the taste has to be true to the flavors I used to eat at home.

When you get time to eat out in Bangkok, where’s your go-to?

When talking about Bangkok, it has to be street food, and I still rank Yaowarat [popular road in Chinatown] as my absolute favourite place to head to.

How do you feel about returning to Auckland for a quick visit, and cooking for both people who know and love SAAN, as well as new customers who haven't tried your cooking? 

It feels like going back home – New Zaealand is still my second home. I'm so excited and happy that my customers still remember the food at SAAN and new customers are ready to open their minds to try my dishes

I'm looking forward to making the soft-shell crab dish again; it’s inspired by my mother's home cooked recipe and holds so many memories that have connected everyone to Saan.

SAAN Returns tickets have sold out but thanks to the fine Auckland weather there may be some extra seats available – email eat@perchbritomart.co.nz to enquire.